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A Good Start.


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Who: Maison Martin Margiela Aids T-shirt

What: A Simple V-Neck T-Shirt

When: AW94 debut, Acquired April 19, 2024

Where: Made in Tunisia, Acquired in Honolulu, Hawaii

Why: Iconic Margiela piece for a great cause


Maison Margiela, previously Maison Martin Margiela, is a French luxury fashion house founded by Belgian designer Martin Margiela and Jenny Meirens. To briefly talk about the brand it was established in 1988, Margiela is well known for its avant-garde and deconstructive designs while also experimenting with materials. When it comes to their fashion shows they’ve always had a unique approach to presenting their collections. From the beginning in 1988, showcasing their spring 1989 collection, Margiela had models walk the runway in face masks to draw attention away from physical features and put it towards the clothes they were wearing. Margiela also painted the bottom of the models shoes red to draw attention to the fact that they were wearing tabi boots from the hoof-like print they left behind.

When I started my venture into fashion one of the first fashion houses that really caught my attention was Margiela. Their story stood out to me the most, how the creator has no known interviews or photos, how their collections would provoke conversation in the fashion realm, how they didn't seek fame or attention and just put their love into making the garments, it felt like Margiela was in their own lane which made me dive into the brand deeper.

While getting more into Margiela and learning the history of the brand I came across a v-neck t-shirt with bold text across the collar, this simple v-neck t-shirt turned out to be a very iconic piece from Margiela. During the starting years of Margiela, AIDS and HIV was starting to make its way into America and Europe having devastating effects. To bring awareness and support to the disease, Margiela created a  t-shirt with the slogan “THERE IS MORE ACTION TO BE DONE TO FIGHT AIDS THAN WEAR THIS T SHIRT BUT IT'S A GOOD START” and had it screen printed while the t-shirt was folded. The intention of the design was for the text to be illegible while worn, sparking questions from observers about what it says and means, creating deeper conversation. There were many fashion figures that offered their support to fighting the disease, but Margiela was one of the first fashion houses to launch an ongoing initiative with an AIDS charity.

I feel like the AIDS t-shirt aligns closely with the ethos of Maison Margiela. Margiela is known for his deconstruction approach to fashion, emphasizing simplicity and rawness. The t-shirt's minimalist design resonates with this philosophy, showcasing how straightforward concepts can convey a profound message. By addressing a pressing social issue like AIDS, it reflects his belief in fashion as a vehicle for commentary and change. Margielas work usually goes against fashion standards. The t-shirt, with its bold message, aligns with this rebel spirit, inviting wearers to stand out and engage with meaningful causes. It embodies the brand's ethos of using fashion to contribute positively to society.

After fully understanding the AIDS t-shirt I just felt like I had to add a piece of the brand's history to my collection. Looking up the t-shirts online I came to find out that it comes in many different colors, languages, and fits. On a random friday, a friend of a friend pops into my workplace mentioning he’s trying to get rid of some of his old clothes, stuff he doesn’t wear anymore, things he has that are collecting dust. I didn’t know what to expect at first until he revealed that he’s selling 5 Margiela AIDS t-shirts. All different colors from black on black, blue on black, pink on gray, orange on gray, and an oversized white on navy. It felt like it was perfect timing so I had to take them all off his hands. 

After acquiring my first 5 AIDS t-shirts and wearing them out I could now truly appreciate how well thought out these pieces were. All of the intentions Margiela had for the design was just so calculated. I’ve had people ask me “What does your shirt say?’ and it goes from telling them what it says that leads to me naturally telling them what it really means. Now I can understand the influence and the impact of the Margiela AIDS t-shirt.

To conclude, some may find people who love fashion to be obsessive and materialistic, fairplay. I wanted this to also be an example about how fashion could be much deeper than just the clothes we see. Some pieces have stories and history with deep meaning that could make someone fall in love with it. I believe there is a place for everyone in fashion, so I encourage everyone out there if you’ve been thinking about it to dive in. Love.


 
 
 

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